How Do I Safely Tow This Thing? A Totally Beginner-Friendly Guide to Towing Your Travel Trailer

Hey there, new travel trailer owner! Welcome to the RV life—we’re thrilled you’re joining the road-tripping crew. Here at Johns RV & Trailer Center, we’ve seen it all, from first-time towers to seasoned pros, and we’ve got your back. If you’re looking at your trailer thinking, “How do I tow this without breaking something—or myself?”—don’t sweat it. We’ve put together this dead-simple guide to towing your travel trailer safely, straight from the service bay to you. No techy nonsense, just the essentials to keep you rolling smoothly.

Step 1: Check Your Tow Vehicle’s Muscle

First things first—let’s make sure your tow vehicle’s up to the task. Every car or truck has a towing capacity (the max weight it can haul), and you’ll find it in the owner’s manual or on a sticker inside the driver’s door. Then, peek at your trailer’s GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)—that’s the total weight when it’s packed with all your gear. Look for it on a label near the door or tongue.

Trailering Tag Breakdown:

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating

It's essentially the maximum operating weight/mass of a vehicle as specified by the manufacturer. This includes:

The vehicle itself.
Passengers.
Cargo.
Fuel.

GCWR: Gross Combination Weight Rating.

It's the maximum allowable combined weight of a tow vehicle and its towed load (like a trailer).
This includes the weight of the vehicle itself, passengers, cargo, and the weight of the trailer and its cargo.
Essentially, it's the total weight limit for the entire "combination" of vehicles.

Key points to remember:

GCWR is crucial for safe towing. Exceeding it can put a strain on your vehicle's components, leading to potential failures.
Vehicle manufacturers determine the GCWR based on factors like engine power, transmission, and axle strength.

RGAWR: Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating.

It indicates the maximum weight that the vehicle's rear axle can safely carry.
This rating is crucial for understanding how much weight you can place over the rear axle of your vehicle, whether it's cargo in the bed of a truck or the tongue weight of a trailer.
It's important to differentiate this from the overall GVWR, which is the total weight of the entire vehicle. RGAWR focuses specifically on the rear axle's capacity.

Essentially, RGAWR helps ensure that you don't overload the rear axle, which could lead to:

Damage to the axle.
Tire failure.
Reduced vehicle stability.
Unsafe driving conditions.

CURB WEIGHT:
- Curb weight is the total weight of a vehicle with all standard equipment and necessary operating fluids (like engine oil, transmission fluid, and a full tank of fuel).
- It does not include the weight of passengers or cargo.
Purpose:
- Curb weight provides a baseline measurement of a vehicle's weight in a "ready-to-drive" state.
- It's helpful for various purposes, including:
  - Shipping or towing a vehicle.
  - Comparing the weight of different vehicles.
  - Understanding how a vehicles weight can effect fuel efficiency, and acceleration.

In essence, it's the weight of the vehicle as it would be if you were about to drive it, but without any people or extra belongings inside.

MAX PAYLOAD:

Max payload refers to the maximum weight a vehicle can safely carry. This includes:
- Passengers
- Cargo
- Any additional equipment or accessories placed in or on the vehicle.
How it's related to other terms:
- It's closely related to the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and curb weight.
- Essentially, payload is the difference between the GVWR and the curb weight.
- Formula: Payload Capacity = GVWR - Curb Weight.
Why it matters:
- Exceeding the max payload can lead to:
  - Compromised safety (reduced braking, handling issues)
  - Damage to the vehicle's suspension, tires, and other components
  - Legal issues (fines for overloading)
In simpler terms:
- It's the amount of "stuff" you can safely put in your vehicle.
Conventional TWR (Trailer Weight Rating):
- This refers to the maximum weight a vehicle can tow using a standard receiver hitch and ball.
- This type of towing is very common for things like travel trailers, boats, and utility trailers.
Conventional Max Tongue Weight:
- This is the maximum downward force that the trailer's tongue can exert on the hitch ball.
- It's typically expressed as a percentage of the trailer's total weight (usually 10-15%).
- Proper tongue weight is essential for trailer stability.
Gooseneck TWR (Trailer Weight Rating):
- This indicates the maximum weight a vehicle can tow using a gooseneck hitch, which is mounted in the bed of a pickup truck.
- Gooseneck hitches are designed for heavier loads and provide greater stability than conventional hitches.
Gooseneck Max Tongue Weight:
- Similar to conventional tongue weight, this is the maximum downward force exerted on the gooseneck hitch.
- Because gooseneck trailers handle heavier loads, this weight is also higher, generally 15-30% of the trailer weight.
- It is more accurate to say pin weight when talking about gooseneck hitches, but tongue weight is also used.

Key Considerations:

These ratings vary significantly between vehicles.
Always consult your vehicle's owner's manual for accurate specifications.
Exceeding these ratings can lead to serious safety hazards.

Shop Tip: Your vehicle’s towing capacity has to beat the trailer’s GVWR. Keep in mind any extra weight you may add such as camping gear, water, food ect. once it is all added up you must be under the weight rating for your vehicle.

Step 2: Get the Hitch Right

The hitch is the unsung hero of towing, and we’ve installed plenty in our shop. Here’s what you need:

Receiver Hitch: That square slot on your vehicle’s back—usually 2 inches for travel trailers. No hitch? We can bolt one on for you.
Trailer Brake Controller: Sometimes these come factory installed in your tow vehicle, sometimes not. If you do not have one, we can install one for you.
Hitch Ball: Matches the trailer’s coupler (check the size stamped on it—2 inches or 2-5/16 inches are common). We’ve got all sizes in stock.
Weight Distribution Hitch: For heavier trailers (over 5,000 lbs loaded), this evens out the weight so your vehicle doesn’t squat. Not sure if you need it? Let us know, and we’ll check.

Tech Trick: Grab a hitch lock while you’re at it—it keeps the ball secure so your trailer stays where it belongs.

Step 3: Hitch Up Without a Hitch

Connecting your trailer’s easier than it looks—here’s the step-by-step we use in the shop:

Align It: Back your vehicle so the hitch ball’s near the trailer’s coupler. Close is fine; you can adjust.
Drop It Down: Lower the tongue jack (the jack on the front) to lower the coupler onto the ball until it locks in.
Secure It: Flip the coupler latch and add the pin or clip. Tug it to confirm it’s solid.
Chain Up: Cross the safety chains under the tongue and hook them to your hitch loops.
Safety Brake: Connect the brake away cable directly to your hitch. Avoid running it thru you chains or connecting onto your chain. This is your last saving grace if your trailer would happen to come off. This will automatically apply the brakes on your trailer, bringing it to a stop.
Plug In: Connect the electrical cord to your vehicle’s socket. Test brake lights, signals, and running lights. (Flickering? Bring it by—we’ll fix it.)
Jack Up: Raise the tongue jack off the ground. Done!

Step 4: Load It Like We Would

We’ve seen trailers packed wrong sway—let’s avoid that:

60/40 Split: Put 60% of the weight ahead of the axle(s), 40% behind. Too much in back? That’s a sway recipe.
Keep It Low: Heavy stuff (think water tanks or toolboxes) goes on the floor, not stacked up high.
Tie It Down: Strap or bungee everything—loose gear’s a headache on the road.

Step 5: Drive Smart—Our Road Rules

Towing’s a different beast, but we’ve got tips to keep it smooth:

Speed Down: Stick to 50-55 mph max, even on highways. It’s safer and saves wear on your rig.
Brake Sooner: Double your stopping distance—that trailer’s got heft.
Wide Turns: Swing wide at corners; trailers cut tighter than your vehicle.
Sway Fix: If it wiggles, ease off the gas—don’t brake hard. We can install sway control if it’s a chronic issue.
Test Run: Hit a parking lot first. Practice turns and braking—we do this with every rig we service.

Extra Shop Wisdom

Tires: Check pressure on both vehicle and trailer tires before you go—numbers are on the sidewalls. Low tires blow out; we replace plenty.
Mirrors: Can’t see behind? We sell and install towing mirrors to kill those blind spots.
Service Stop: Towing wears brakes and suspensions faster. Pop in for a checkup after your first big trip.

From Our Bay to Your Adventure

We get it—towing’s intimidating when you’re new. But follow these steps, and you’ll be pulling into campgrounds like a pro in no time. At Johns RV And Trailer Center, we’ve got your back—whether it’s hitching advice, a quick repair, or just a pep talk. Got questions or a shaky setup? Swing by or give us a call. Now, where’s your first trip? Let’s get you towing safely!